When we hear the word "acid", the first thing that comes to mind is something dangerous or aggressive. But for beauty experts, this is a real find for the skin.

Many of you have probably been using these chemical compounds in your daily care for a long time without even knowing it. Remember that fruity toner or night cream that makes your face look noticeably fresher? Most likely, these miracle ingredients are hiding there.

So why have acids become so popular in cosmetics? Let's figure out what their secret is and why cosmetologists all over the world unanimously talk about their benefits.

What are fruit acids

Fruit (AHA) acids are a group of substances that are found in nature, especially in fruits and some plants. They are also called alpha hydroxy acids.

The most famous of them are:

• Glycolic (from sugar cane)
• Lactic (from fermented milk products)
• Malic (from apples)
• Citric (from citrus fruits)
• Tartaric (from grapes)

In cosmetics, they are not used in pure form, but in small concentrations. They help exfoliate dead skin cells, stimulate renewal and improve the overall condition of the epidermis.

Interestingly, our body also produces some of these acids naturally. For example, lactic acid is formed in muscles during physical activity.

Fruit acids: benefits and harms

These compounds have a complex effect on the skin, affecting its various layers and processes:

Exfoliation

The components weaken desmosomes - intercellular connections in the stratum corneum of the epidermis. This leads to faster and more uniform exfoliation of dead cells. As a result, a smoother facial texture is achieved, the visibility of fine wrinkles and unevenness is reduced.

Moisturizing

Many fruit acids, especially glycolic, have hygroscopic properties. They attract water molecules from the air and retain them in the epidermis. This helps maintain optimal moisture levels, makes the skin more elastic and firm.

Stimulating cell renewal

Regular use of these components creates mild stress for the skin. In response to this, it accelerates the process of cell division in the basal layer of the epidermis. This leads to faster renewal, which is especially useful for mature skin, where this process is slow.

Evening tone

The exfoliating effect helps to gradually remove cells with excess pigment. In addition, some acids, such as kojic acid, directly suppress the production of melanin. This helps to lighten age spots and even out the overall tone.

Antioxidant effect

Many fruit acids, especially vitamin C (ascorbic acid), are powerful antioxidants. They neutralize free radicals, protecting cells from oxidative stress and premature aging.

Stimulating collagen production

Ascorbic and glycolic acids can stimulate fibroblasts - cells responsible for the production of collagen and elastin. This helps improve structure and elasticity, reduce the visibility of wrinkles and prevent their appearance.

Regulating the sebaceous glands

Salicylic acid has lipophilic properties, which allows it to penetrate pores and regulate the sebaceous glands. This is especially useful for oily and problematic skin prone to acne.

Antibacterial effect

Many fruit acids create an environment on the skin surface that is unfavorable for the growth of bacteria, which helps fight acne and prevents inflammation.

Improving the penetration of other active ingredients

The exfoliating effect of acids and their ability to temporarily disrupt the lipid barrier of the skin allow other active ingredients in cosmetics to better penetrate into the deeper layers of the epidermis.

Increasing protective functions

Regular and correct use of these chemical compounds will help strengthen the skin's protective barrier, make it more resistant to external influences and less prone to irritation.

Although fruit acids have many beneficial properties, their improper use can cause harm:

• Irritation. When used excessively or in high concentrations, they can cause redness, itching and flaking.
• Increased sensitivity. Regular use can make the skin more susceptible to external factors.
• Photosensitivity. Increases sensitivity to UV rays, increasing the risk of sunburn.
• Barrier damage. When abused, they can damage the lipid layer, leading to dryness and irritation.
• Allergic reactions. May cause allergies in some people.
• Exacerbation of skindiseases. May aggravate symptoms of conditions such as rosacea or eczema.
• Chemical burns. If used incorrectly or in too high concentrations.

It is important to note that the effectiveness and safety of using fruit acids depends on their concentration, the pH of the product, the frequency of use and individual characteristics. Therefore, it is always recommended to start with low concentrations and gradually increase them, carefully monitoring the reaction.

How to choose cosmetics with acids

Study the different types of acids and their properties. For example, glycolic exfoliates well and is suitable for mature skin, salicylic acid is effective against acne, and hyaluronic acid moisturizes and smoothes. Lactic acid has a gentle effect and is suitable for sensitive skin. For those who are just beginning their acquaintance with these components, it is better to start with PHA (polyhydroxy acids).

Pay attention to the release form: serums are more concentrated, creams are softer. For beginners, it is better to start with peelings or tonics with a low content of the component.

Consider compatibility with other products in your care. Some acids should not be used together or immediately after retinol. Always read the instructions and follow the recommendations for frequency of use.

Do not forget about the season: in the summer, it is better to reduce the concentration of products or use them less often due to increased skin sensitivity to the sun.